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I'm an expat Californian who is obsessed with traveling to strange and exotic destinations in the former Communist Bloc. I also like tacos, beer, surfing, trapshooting, and the geopolitics of oil. I currently live in Arlington, Virginia and work in Washington, DC. Read more about me here, check out my photo album, or send me an e-mail.

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    Once we feed gas to entry point of Ukrainian gas transmission system, it is to appear at exit point!


    I really wish Gazprom would post videos of their press conferences, because it would be rather hilarious to see Sergey Kupriyanov and Alexey Miller shouting their statements to reporters:


    As of January 7, when Gazprom was forced to cease gas supplies, the transit pipelines in Ukraine were filled with Russian gas. Therefore, the pipeline pressure is supposed to be sufficient for ensuring synchronous gas flow at the entry and exit points of the Ukrainian gas transmission system. Once we feed gas to the entry point, it is to appear at the exit point!

    Russian gas supplies to Europe through Ukraine should be commenced in the earliest time possible. However, now everything depends only on Ukraine!


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    I love Gazprom’s press releases


    Especially when they use exclamation marks!

    Providing gas for technological needs is the sole responsibility of transiting party!


    Indeed!


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    “People just took to boozing like crazy”


    Interview with Gogol Bordello’s Eugene Hütz on his experience as a kid living in Ukraine during the Chernobyl accident. I’m seeing Gogol at the 9:30 Club in a few weeks and can’t wait. One of the best concerts I’ve ever seen was their show at Coachella in ‘07.


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    It’s that time of the year


    Gazprom and Ukrainians fighting over natural gas contracts again:

    Russia’s state-owned energy company, Gazprom, will cut off gas deliveries to Ukraine on January 1 unless a new contract is signed, a company spokesman has said.

    “We would like to avoid such a scenario, we would like to agree on everything before New Year, but as you understand, we cannot deliver gas without a contract,” spokesman Sergei Kupriyanov told Russia’s Vesti-24 television on Saturday.

    Zzzz…they’ll settle this eventually.


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    The Battle of Chernobyl

    The Battle of Chernobyl is by far the best documentary I’ve seen on the disaster and ensuing cleanup. This documentary contains a lot of footage that’s never been shown before, including scenes of the poor liquidators forced to stitch together their own “anti-radiation” suits and then shovel radioactive debris off the roof of the reactor. I originally saw The Battle of Chernobyl on the Discovery Times Channel a few years ago, and was pleasantly surprised to find that it was uploaded to Google Video. If you have any interest in the subject, I’d highly recommend watching this documentary. The 90 minutes is well worth it.

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    Lessons from the former Soviet Union: How to park your car in Kiev

    Mercedes parked on a sidewalk in Kiev, Ukraine

    If you were under the impression that sidewalks existed solely for the use of pedestrians, you would be wrong. At least if you were in Kiev, where it is quite common for drivers to park on sidewalks. With Kiev’s horrendous traffic, you’re also likely to see cars driving down the sidewalk, as we did while on our bus coming back from Chernobyl. Our bus driver felt it was appropriate to drive on the sidewalk rather than wait at a busy intersection. Amazingly, no pedestrians were harmed in the process.

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    The Chernobyl Riviera?

    As bizarre as it sounds, wealthy Ukrainians are building vacation homes near the 30km exclusion zone surrounding the Chernobyl nuclear reactor:

    The sky is a cornflower blue and the lake is calm. Sunburned fishermen pull up to the dock in motorboats, their nets filled with pike.

    On the deck of a hunting lodge, couples are feasting on their catches and rehashing the day’s adventures. Farther down the road, crews are finishing the roof of yet another lakefront, luxury home.

    The latest villa to sprout on the shores of the Kiev Reservoir is just a few metres from the barbed-wire fence that marks the 30-kilometre exclusion zone surrounding the infamous Chernobyl plant.

    Yes, nature lovers have discovered Chernobyl. The region near the scene of the world’s worst nuclear accident is now dubbed the “Chernobyl Riviera” for its grand homes and commanding vistas.

    [...]

    Twenty-one years after a reactor at the Chernobyl nuclear power plant exploded, ripping off the roof, and spewing radioactive poison into the countryside, Ukrainian holiday-makers are flocking to the region to bask in its quiet and enjoy the abundant wilderness that sprang to life when humans were forcibly evacuated.

    Today, the woods and waters surrounding the village of Strakholissya – a half-hour drive from the stricken plant – are among the best hunting and fishing grounds in Ukraine. Wild boar, deer and wolves roam in the dense birch and pine forests.

    Not one of the many weekenders interviewed expressed concern about potential health hazards. “It’s more contaminated in Kiev,” one fisherman said, laughing.

    Recently, Ukraine’s rich and famous discovered the tranquil spot. They are mainly from Kiev, townspeople say, and they have built a line of lavish homes, hidden from prying villagers’ eyes by tall fences.

    Their magnificent houses, docks and swimming pools are on full display if you rent a boat and ogle from the lake.

    [...]

    At the hunting lodge, Mr. Kuzmenko, his wife and friends said they weren’t worried about radiation levels.
    “Our bodies have adapted to this,” said Sergei Ivanov, who, along with Mr. Kuzmenko and their wives drove up from Kiev for a weekend of duck hunting.

    The group were up at dawn with their rifles. By early afternoon, they were back at the lodge, relaxing on the deck, the corpses of their hunted fowl hanging from the railing. Mr. Kuzmenko’s wife, Oksana, was looking forward to sunset.

    “In the evening, the water gets an interesting colour,” Ms. Kuzmenko said. “The moon gives a white light, which makes [the lake] look like ice.”

    Personally, I’d rather invest in beachfront property and spend my time surfing instead of picking radioactive mushrooms, but that’s just me. To each their own.

    Related: LAist Interview: Director/Adaptor of Voices from Chornobyl, Cindy Marie Jenkins, Chernobyl plant to get a proper burial

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    Ukraine/Poland ‘07 Roundup


    Yeah, I’m finally done writing about this trip. Only took me four months. Still, that’s a significant improvement over last year’s trip to the Caucasus, which I didn’t finish writing about until December. I haven’t the slightest idea why it takes me so much time to write about places I’ve gone, considering that my travel posts are what most people stumble across, and therefore e-mail me about.

    So, if you missed anything, here you go:
    1. LOT – The airline of the proletariat
    2. Ukraine Photos: Touring the Chernobyl Exclusion Zone
    3. Dispatches from Chernobyl, Part I: Dude, where’s your Geiger counter?
    4. Dispatches from Chernobyl, Part II: Liquidators Memorial / Kopachi / Catfish / Reactor 4
    5. Dispatches from Chernobyl, Part III: The ghosts of Pripyat
    6. Dispatches from Chernobyl, Part IV: Chisto?
    7. Kiev: Post-Chernobyl food run/4th of July dinner (or how I flew 6000 miles to partake in Oreo Madness)
    8. Ukraine Photos: Kiev
    9. Kiev: You’ve seen one Rodina Mat, you’ve seen ‘em all
    10. Make sure to secure the door when I am gone. There are many dangerous people who wanna take things from Americans, and also kidnap them. Good night!
    11. Kiev Pechersk Lavra (Kiev Monastery of the Caves)
    12. Poland Photos: Krakow / Auschwitz-Birkenau / Wieliczka Salt Mine
    13. Kraków
    14. Auschwitz
    15. Wieliczka Salt Mine: Goin’ Deeper Underground


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    Former Soviet republics top list of “World’s Most Polluted Places”

    The Blacksmith Institute recently published its list of the world’s most polluted places, with four of the top ten located in the former Soviet Union:

    * Sumgayit, Azerbaijan (chemical industry)
    * Dzerzhinsk, Russia (chemical weapons production)
    * Norilsk, Russia (nickel mining)
    * Chernobyl, Ukraine (radiation)

    Never made it to Sumgayit when I was in Azerbaijan, but the area outside of Baku was the most polluted place I’d ever seen…huge pools of crude oil, rusting equipment, broken pipelines…the place was just a damn mess. Chernobyl, of course, is also extremely polluted, but you could easily mistake it for a nature preserve if not for the “Warning! Radiation!” signs planted throughout the exclusion zone.

    In other Chernobyl related news, the Ukrainian government signed a $600 million contract with the French company Novarka for the construction of a new shield to cover reactor four and the current dilapidated sarcophagus. Work is expected to start in October, with a targeted completion date of 2012. The EBRD is picking up most of the tab.

    new_chernobyl_cover.gif
    Source: BBC

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    Kiev Pechersk Lavra (Kiev Monastery of the Caves)

    Kiev Pechersk Lavra

    I’m accumulating a rather impressive collection of head scarves due to my travels throughout the former Soviet Union. It’s not that I actually collect head scarves, or even wear them, but I always forget to pack one and am thus forced to purchase yet another before heading into an Orthodox cathedral/church/monastery/whatever. While visiting the Monastery of the Caves in Kiev, I opted for a cheap, boring yellow scarf. (Nothing will ever top the head scarf I purchased for our trip to a monastery in Novgorod a few years back…it was bright pink and covered with several large flamingos. I think the monks were duly impressed…or appalled.)

    The Kiev Monastery of the Caves is one of the most famous sights in Kiev, primarily due to its complex system of underground tunnels. Upon entering the tunnels, you are surrounded by worshipers prostrating themselves before icons, lighting candles, and kissing glass coffins that contain the remains of monks. I was convinced that, while navigating through the narrow passageways, I would bump into a member of the candle carrying faithful and my cheap, yellow headscarf would soon be in flames. I do not recall seeing any fire extinguishers down there. If you’re claustrophobic, you might want to avoid the caves.

    Kiev Pechersk Lavra

    Kiev Pechersk Lavra

    Kiev Pechersk Lavra
    Seriously, how unbelievably cute is that little onion dome?

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